Traveling to Japan—is it Tokyo again? Osaka again? Of course, they're great. But after a few visits, a thought might cross your mind: Where is the *real* Japan? You start wanting to see something beyond the bustling scramble crossings and flashy neon signs, something a bit more intimate.
I felt the same way. So, instead of booking another flight to a crowded metropolis, I hopped on a train to a small, unfamiliar town. As I watched the rice paddies and low-lying roofs flash by the rattling train window, I realized, 'Wow, I've really been sticking to the beaten path.' And what I discovered there were the kinds of things you'd never find on the first page of a travel guide—small, quirky, and all the more lovable for it. This was the true face of traveling in Japan's small cities.
Art Hidden at Your Feet: The Secret of Manhole Covers
Honestly, who goes on vacation to stare at the ground? I was always looking up, searching for impressive buildings or signs. That is, until I started traveling to Japan's small cities.
While walking down a quiet shopping alley, I happened to glance down, and I couldn't believe my eyes. On a manhole cover, which should have been just a plain piece of metal, was an adorable drawing of a yuzu, the local specialty. It felt like a lightbulb went off in my head. Maybe that was the moment my 'great manhole cover pilgrimage' began. Japan, it turns out, is serious about its manholes. Every city, and even small towns, has its own unique manhole cover design that captures its identity—featuring local castles, flowers, festivals, products, and even anime characters. It's like they've embedded the city's business card right into the pavement.
They say there are over 12,000 different designs across Japan. There's even a dedicated fanbase of 'manholers' who collect them. In fact, if you visit specific locations in each area, you can get free 'manhole cards,' which are like collectible photo cards. Many people travel to these towns just to collect them. You can find more information on the official website of Japan's 'Sewerage Public Relations Platform (GKP)' (https://www.gk-p.jp/), so if you're confident in your Japanese, give it a try. Isn't it amazing that a simple manhole cover can hold such a deep story?
Why the Obsession with Manholes?
In the 1980s, to help residents understand and appreciate the expensive and often overlooked sewerage projects, the idea of 'making manhole covers beautiful' was born. This concept spread nationwide and evolved into the culture it is today.
Manhole Cards (マンホールカード)
These are collectible cards featuring a photo of the actual manhole cover, the origin of its design, and its GPS coordinates. You can get one card per person for free at designated distribution points (like public offices, tourist information centers, etc.), adding a fun, small quest to your trip.
No Convenience Store? No Problem. Bizarre Vending Machines
Everyone knows Japan is the 'land of vending machines.' But if you're only picturing the typical drink machines you see in big cities, small towns will shatter your expectations.
I was traveling through a quiet village in Shikoku. Walking back to my accommodation late at night, I was incredibly thirsty. There wasn't a convenience store, or even a single lit shop, in sight. Just as I was losing hope, I spotted a faint light on a street corner. It was a vending machine, appearing like a savior. But when I got closer, I saw it wasn't selling soda or juice. It was selling 'dashi' (だし), Japanese soup stock. And it came in both hot and cold versions! I laughed in disbelief for a good while before my curiosity got the better of me. I bought a hot bottle, and the warm broth on that chilly night was unbelievably delicious. In that moment, I felt the full force of Japan's unique blend of practicality and wit.
In small towns, vending machines are more than just a convenience; they're a part of daily life. They act as tiny shops that meet the needs of residents in places without 24-hour stores. You can find machines selling farm-fresh eggs, hot meals like udon and ramen, or even local produce and sake. It's a sight you'd never imagine in a big city. The joy of discovering these bizarre vending machines is one of the unpredictable pleasures of small-town travel.
Conclusion: How to Meet the Real Japan
Glamorous shopping centers and famous tourist spots are, of course, part of Japan. But the real Japan was hidden in the moments of struggle: scrambling because there were no coin lockers at the train station, running to catch one of the few buses of the day, and using frantic hand gestures to ask for directions where English wasn't spoken. It's in reading a city's pride from a manhole cover and getting a glimpse of local life from a quirky vending machine. These small discoveries come together to create your own special travel map.
If you're planning your next trip to Japan, try to forget the famous names for a moment. Instead, why not open a map app and just pick a random small town? It might be a little inconvenient, maybe even a bit quiet, but I promise you'll find unexpected fun and authentic stories waiting for you there.
Practical Tips for Travelers
Traveling to small cities requires different preparation than visiting metropolises. Based on my experience, here are a few tips. First, checking transportation schedules is essential. Trains and buses can be infrequent, sometimes running only a few times a day, so it's wise to plan your entire route in advance using Google Maps or a Japanese transit app. Also, carry plenty of cash. Many small restaurants and shops don't accept credit cards. A coin purse will also come in handy. Small stations often don't have coin lockers, so it's best to pack light or leave your luggage at your accommodation before exploring. Finally, since English isn't widely spoken in many areas, be sure to install a translation app like Papago or Google Translate. The photo translation feature is especially useful for reading menus.