Late April, the cherry blossoms have all fallen, so why are flights so expensive? I thought it was time to relax after the cherry blossom season, but to my surprise, a flight to Tokyo was as pricey as during the year-end peak season. A round-trip LCC ticket I expected to be around 200,000-300,000 won was well over 500,000 won. I couldn't figure out what was going on, especially since it wasn't a public holiday in Korea.
It was only then that I looked at a calendar and it hit me. Ah, Golden Week (ゴールデンウィーク). Japan's biggest holiday period was just around the corner. It's a travel ambush that's not as well-known to Korean tourists as cherry blossom season or summer vacation. The name sounds like it promises a special, sparkling trip, but the reality I faced was endless crowds and the words 'fully booked' and 'sold out'.
It wasn't just crowded. The Shibuya Scramble Crossing felt less like its usual vibrant chaos and more like being trapped and pushed along by a massive human wave. Even ordinary ramen shops had lines snaking around the block. Hotel booking sites flashed warnings like '95% of accommodations for these dates are booked,' and even museum tickets, usually easy to get, were sold out well in advance. That's when I thought, 'Ah, if I don't prepare properly, this trip will be a disaster. This is on a whole different level than a typical peak season.'
So, is Golden Week a period to be avoided at all costs? Or are there ways to enjoy a trip amidst this chaos? Before we dive into strategies, we first need to understand the true nature of this massive 'Golden Week'.
The Dreaded Golden Week: What Exactly Is It?
Golden Week isn't a single public holiday. It refers to a golden period of consecutive holidays clustered from late April to early May.
Showa Day (April 29), Constitution Memorial Day (May 3), Greenery Day (May 4), and Children's Day (May 5) fall in succession. If you take off the weekdays in between, you can get a massive holiday of a week to ten days. Think of it like Korea's Seollal or Chuseok holidays, but the scale is beyond imagination. Almost the entire Japanese population travels domestically or visits their hometowns during this time, creating a literal 'great national migration.' Even the Japan National Tourism Organization (JNTO) highlights this period as a major travel season. (See the JNTO's Golden Week guide)
I remember the chill that ran down my spine when I tried to book a Shinkansen to Kyoto two weeks in advance, only to see every single time slot marked as '満席' (fully booked). I ended up having to wait in line for over 30 minutes on the platform for a more expensive non-reserved seat. I was lucky to get a seat, but the aisle was so packed with people and their luggage that even going to the restroom was a struggle. This is the reality of Golden Week.
Pros: Things You Can Only See During This Time
The weather is fantastic. You can travel in the best spring weather that's neither too hot nor too cold. The lively atmosphere, with many regional festivals (matsuri) and special events held only during this period, is also a definite plus.
Cons: What You'll Have to Endure
All costs, including flights and accommodations, skyrocket by two to three times or more. You can't escape the extreme congestion everywhere, from popular tourist spots to train stations, shopping malls, and restaurants. If you're hoping for a 'leisurely' and 'healing' trip, you're bound to be disappointed.
So, You Still Have to Go During Golden Week?
The packed Shinkansen I described earlier could be your future. But what if you've already booked your flight and taken time off? It's too early to give up. If you can't change your schedule, you have to change your strategy. The key is simple: 'Move in the opposite direction of everyone else, or at least differently.'
Most domestic Japanese travelers use the holiday to return to their hometowns or follow the 'classic' routes to places like Kyoto, Osaka, and Fukuoka. That means we need to go against the grain. We can explore unexpected spots in the big cities that people are leaving, or target smaller cities that are less known to foreign tourists but loved by locals.
Instead of the Crowded Spots
- Kyoto's Arashiyama Bamboo Grove
- Tokyo's Shibuya Scramble Crossing
- Osaka's Dotonbori, in front of the Glico Running Man sign
How About These Places?
- Kamakura's Hokoku-ji Temple (The Bamboo Temple)
- Tokyo's Kichijoji Harmonica Yokocho
- Osaka's local food streets in Tenma and Fukushima
The charm of this 'Plan B' becomes even more apparent when you experience it yourself. I also boldly skipped the crowded Senso-ji Temple in Asakusa and instead visited the relatively quiet Yanaka area. I was able to soak in a truly 'Japanese' atmosphere while strolling through the nostalgic 'Yanaka Ginza' shopping street and the alleys lined with tranquil temples. The real pleasure of a Golden Week trip is finding places where you hear the sound of locals' bicycles instead of the noise of tourists.
And another golden rule: advance booking is not an option, it's a survival tool. For anything that can be booked—museums, observation decks, theme parks, popular restaurants—pay for it before you go. The thought 'I'll just buy a ticket there' will only be met with a one-hour-plus queue or the cold, hard words 'sold out.' Make active use of places that sell 'timed-entry tickets,' like Shibuya Sky or teamLab. During Golden Week, even these timed slots fill up quickly, so it's best to book as soon as your travel plans are confirmed.
One More Pro Tip: When booking a timed-entry ticket, aim for the 'first slot' of the day. When the venue first opens, there are no crowds carrying over from the previous time slot, allowing for the most pleasant viewing experience. You'll have to sacrifice sleeping in, but it's well worth it.
Practical Tips for Travelers
It's no exaggeration to say that a Golden Week trip is all about 'information' and 'preparation.' Just remembering these few things can significantly reduce your chances of failure. First, book your transportation at least a month in advance. Reserved seats on trains like the Shinkansen can sell out the moment they go on sale. Even if you're using a JR Pass, reserving your seat is essential. Second, it's best to book accommodations at least six months, or even a year, in advance. If you have no choice but to book last minute, a realistic alternative is to look for places in the suburbs, about a 20-30 minute subway ride from the city center. Third, avoid peak meal times. Have an early lunch at 11 AM or a late one around 3-4 PM. By shifting your schedule just an hour or two from everyone else, you can avoid the hellish queues. Lastly, don't pack your schedule too tightly. It's better for your mental health to go in with the mindset of leisurely exploring just one or two places a day. A Golden Week trip is certainly a challenge, but with thorough planning and a willingness to be flexible, it can also be a special memory of experiencing Japan at its most vibrant. It all depends on your preparation.