
Japanese Ryokan: No one goes just once
If you've traveled to Japan a few times, you've probably thought about staying at a ryokan.
The image of wearing a yukata, soaking in an onsen, enjoying kaiseki cuisine, and sleeping soundly in a tatami room.
The vibe you see on social media is truly amazing.
However, ryokans are completely different from hotels.When I first
went to a ryokan, I was genuinely flustered by many things.Like when the staff's
expression slightly stiffened because I was late for check-in, when I wore the yukata incorrectly and had to be re-taught,
or when I awkwardly waited for the next course of kaiseki without knowing when it would arrive.
A ryokan is not a "space you use however you want"
like a hotel.It's a place where you follow the flow carefully
prepared by the ryokan staff.So, in this article, I've compiled points that might fluster first-time ryokan guests, essential etiquette, and common mistakes.
๐ Table of Contents
- Key Differences Between Ryokans and Hotels
- The Real Reason Why You Must Adhere to Check-in Times
- Yukata: Don't Just Wear It Any Way
- Kaiseki Cuisine: Enjoy It 200% More with Prior Knowledge
- Onsen Etiquette: Differences from Korean Bathhouses
- 5 Points That Might Fluster You in Your Guest Room
- Ryokan Pricing System: Completely Different from Hotels
- 5 Common Mistakes When Visiting a Ryokan for the First Time
- 5 Things to Pack for Your Ryokan Stay
- Where to Go for Your First Ryokan Visit
- Ryokan Pre-Visit Checklist
๐ฏ Key Differences Between Ryokans and Hotels
While hotels are places where you check in and relax as you please, ryokans are different.
| Item | Hotel | Ryokan |
|---|---|---|
| Check-in Time | Usually 2 PM | Usually 3 PM |
| Meals | Separate (Optional) | 1 night, 2 meals included as standard |
| Meal Times | Flexible | Fixed times must be observed |
| Room Setup | Cleaned, then free to use | Staff lays out futons |
| Attire | Casual | Yukata worn |
| Pricing Unit | Per night | Per person |
| Check-out | Usually 11 AM | Usually 10 AM |
| Service | Mostly self-service | Nakai-san attends to guests |
The key point is this: the standard check-in time for Japanese ryokans is 3 PM, while for hotels it's 2 PM. If you're going to be late for ryokan check-in, be sure to contact them in advance.
In a hotel, it doesn't matter if you arrive at 8 PM or 11 PM, but in a ryokan, being late can cause significant inconvenience due to meal preparations. This is the biggest difference from a hotel.
โฐ The Real Reason Why You Must Adhere to Check-in Times
One of the most common mistakes at a ryokan is regarding check-in time.
Thinking "it's okay to be late" like at a hotel can lead to serious problems.
Because ryokans operate on this schedule:
- 3 PM - 5 PM โ Check-in, room guidance, changing into yukata
- 5 PM - 6 PM โ First onsen visit (light bathing before dinner)
- 6 PM - 7:30 PM โ Dinner (Kaiseki)
- Around 9 PM โ Staff comes to lay out futons
- 10 PM - 11 PM โ Second onsen visit (before bed)
- Next day 7 AM - 9 AM โ Breakfast
- 10 AM โ Check-out
The core here is the dinner kaiseki. If dinner is kaiseki cuisine, dinner times can start at 30-minute intervals from approximately 6 PM to 7:30 PM, and you need to inform them of your preferred dinner time.
When I first went, I thought I'd check in around 5 PM, but I was flustered when the ryokan staff asked, "What time would you like dinner?"
You have to choose a time like 6 PM? 6:30 PM? 7 PM?
Once a time is set, you must be at the dining area punctually.
๐ If you anticipate being late for check-in, always call the ryokan. Meal times can be adjusted.
๐ง Yukata: Don't Just Wear It Any Way
When you enter a ryokan room, a yukata will be prepared for you.
But you can't just wear it any way; there's a specific way to put it on.
One key rule:
When wearing a yukata, always place the right flap against your body first, then overlap it with the left flap. Wearing it the other way is how it's worn for funerals, so be careful.
Easy way to remember:
โ Correct Way: Left Over Right (ๅทฆๅ X, ๅณๅ O)
- Place the right flap against your body first
- Then cover it with the left flap
- As a result, the left side will be on top
โ Absolutely Forbidden Way
- Wearing it with the right side on top โ This is how clothes are worn for the deceased
- From a Japanese perspective, it's a truly offensive mistake
๐ก How to Tie the Obi (Sash)
- The obi is usually in the room or closet
- Start at the front of your stomach โ wrap it around to the back and tie it
- Don't tie it too tightly; leave enough space for one finger
It might feel awkward at first, but the staff will help you. If you're unsure, ask at the front desk.
If the size doesn't fit, you can inquire at the front desk for an exchange.
๐ฑ Kaiseki Cuisine: Enjoy It 200% More with Prior Knowledge
When you first eat ryokan kaiseki, you might wonder if that's all there is, but then you'll be stuffed before you know it.
It's a Japanese course meal, so not everything comes out at once.
Typical Kaiseki Sequence
| Order | Dish | Point |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Sakizuke (Appetizer) | A bite to whet the appetite |
| 2 | Tsukuri (Sashimi) | Seasonal fish |
| 3 | Shirumono (Soup) | Clear soup |
| 4 | Yakimono (Grilled Dish) | Grilled fish/meat |
| 5 | Nimono (Simmered Dish) | Simmered vegetables/meat |
| 6 | Agemono (Fried Dish) | Tempura |
| 7 | Sunomono (Vinegared Dish) | Palate cleanser |
| 8 | Gohan (Rice, Soup, Pickles) | Finishing course |
| 9 | Mizugashi (Dessert) | Fruit/Japanese sweets |
A total of 8-10 courses are served. It usually takes about 1 hour 30 minutes to 2 hours.
๐ก Things to Know When Eating Kaiseki
- You don't have to eat everything. The portions are truly generous. Overeating will affect your condition the next day.
- Drinks are charged separately. Meal charges are included in the accommodation fee, but any alcohol or beverages ordered separately during the meal must be paid for separately.
- No refills. Unlike in Korea, they won't give you more side dishes if you ask. Kaiseki is a single-serving course.
- Great for photos. The plating is truly artistic. If you want to take photos for social media, kaiseki is the best.
- Don't be late. Food starts coming out at the designated time, so absolutely do not be late.
The first time, I ate everything because it was so delicious, but I really struggled with the later courses.From the
middle onwards, it's best to just taste a bite or two and leave the rest.
โจ๏ธ Onsen Etiquette: Differences from Korean Bathhouses
Ryokan onsen have a completely different atmosphere from Korean jjimjilbangs and public bathhouses.
They are quiet, formal, and the etiquette is truly strict.
๐ด Absolutely Forbidden Actions
- Wearing a swimsuit โ (Entering naked is standard)
- Dipping your towel in the bathwater โ (Place your towel on your head or beside you)
- Entering the bath without washing your body โ (Always shower before entering the bath)
- Taking photos โ (Forbidden in changing rooms and bathing areas)
- Talking loudly โ (Maintain silence comparable to a library)
- Running around โ (Dangerous due to slipperiness)
โ Correct Bathing Sequence
- Take off all clothes in the changing room (including underwear)
- Bring only one small towel to the bathing area
- Sit in the shower area and wash your body thoroughly
- Rinse off all soap suds completely
- Enter the bath slowly
- Initially, for a short period of 5-10 minutes
- Cool down outside, then re-enter the bath
Most onsen dislike towels touching the bathwater. While covering is possible, it's safer not to dip it in the water.
โ ๏ธ Important for those with tattoos
Many Japanese onsen have strict tattoo entry restrictions. If you don't check beforehand, you might be refused entry.
- 1st priority: Inquire with the ryokan before booking โ Most reliable
- 2nd priority: Use tattoo cover stickers (waterproof)
- 3rd priority: Book a private bath (kashikiri) or in-room open-air bath โ Not subject to public bath regulations
Nowadays, with the increase in foreign tourists, many ryokans allow tattoos.
Be sure to check for a "Tattoo OK" sign on their official website.
๐๏ธ 5 Points That Might Fluster You in Your Guest Room
The first time you enter a ryokan room, you might be flustered by how different it is from a hotel.
1. No Bed
Ryokans use a tatami room + futon (bedding) system.
At first, you might look for a bed, but the staff will lay out the futon after your dinner.
Immediately after check-in, there will only be a low table and cushions.
2. Take off Shoes at the Entrance
You must take off all your shoes at the room entrance.
Tatami rooms are for bare feet or socks only. Slippers are not worn inside the room.
3. Handle Luggage Gently
Tatami mats are delicate. Rolling suitcase wheels will leave marks.
It's good manners to lift and carry your luggage. If you have a lot of luggage, the staff will help you.
4. Tea and Wagashi Are Prepared in Advance
Upon check-in, the staff will bring tea and wagashi (Japanese sweets).
This is like a welcome gesture, so it's good to at least take a sip.
5. Minibar/Refrigerator Is Charged
Unlike hotels, free bottled water is often not provided.
All beverages in the refrigerator are charged and will be added to your bill at check-out.
๐ฐ Ryokan Pricing System: Completely Different from Hotels
When you first try to book a ryokan, it can be really confusing.
Key: Per night โ, Per person โ
For example, if it says 30,000 yen per night, it's likely the price per person.
For two people, it would be 60,000 yen. It's not per room like a hotel.
Included in the Price
- 1 night's accommodation
- Dinner kaiseki (1 course per person)
- Breakfast the next day
- In-room amenities (yukata, towels, slippers, tea, wagashi, etc.)
- Onsen usage
Not Included in the Price
- Alcohol/beverages ordered during meals
- Minibar
- Additional usage fee for private open-air baths (some)
- Additional services like massages
- Shuttle service (free at some ryokans)
Price Range Reference:
- Budget ryokan/minshuku: 6,000-10,000 yen per person per night
- Mid-range ryokan: 15,000-25,000 yen per person per night
- Luxury ryokan: 25,000-50,000 yen per person per night
- Top-tier ryokan: 80,000 yen or more per person per night
I initially thought 25,000 yen per night meant 25,000 yen for two people.
I was genuinely surprised when I was charged 50,000 yen at check-out.
โ 5 Common Mistakes When Visiting a Ryokan for the First Time
These are all things I've personally experienced.
โ Mistake 1. Arriving late for check-in
If you arrive around 7 PM, thinking it's like a hotel, you'll miss dinner kaiseki.
Always arrive by 5 PM. If you're late, calling in advance is essential.
โ Mistake 2. Wearing the yukata incorrectly
If the right side is on top, it's funeral attire. Japanese people really dislike it.
Left over right, right underneath. Memorize it.
โ Mistake 3. Trying to eat all of the kaiseki
If you eat everything during the sashimi and tempura courses, you'll really struggle with the later courses.
Pacing yourself by tasting just a bite or two is essential.
โ Mistake 4. Dipping your towel in the onsen water
Place your towel on your head or outside the bath.
Dipping it in the bathwater is a serious breach of etiquette.
โ Mistake 5. Talking loudly in the room
Ryokan walls are very thin. The next room can hear everything.
If you talk loudly while drinking at night, you'll get complaints. Enjoying quietly is ryokan etiquette.
๐งณ 5 Things to Pack for Your Ryokan Stay
Ryokans provide many basic amenities, but there are some things that are convenient to bring along.
- Personal cosmetics/skincare products (amenities might not suit your skin)
- Hairband/hair tie (to tie up your hair when entering the onsen)
- Socks (for warmth in tatami rooms + when moving around the room)
- Tattoo cover stickers (only if applicable)
- Small plastic bag (for storing used underwear)
Ryokan amenities usually include shampoo, conditioner, body wash, toothbrush, and razor.
However, if you have sensitive skin, it's safer to bring your own products.
๐ธ Where to Go for Your First Ryokan Visit
Here are some recommended regions for first-time ryokan visitors.
๐ฅ Hakone (Near Tokyo)
- 1 hour 30 minutes from Tokyo by Shinkansen/Romancecar
- Many ryokans with Fuji-san views
- Variety of ryokan price ranges (mid-range to top-tier)
- Most recommended for first-timers
๐ฅ Yufuin (Oita, Kyushu)
- 1 hour 30 minutes from Fukuoka
- Rural village charm + open-air baths
- Many good value-for-money ryokans
- Popular, so book early
๐ฅ Kusatsu (Gunma)
- 2 hours 30 minutes from Tokyo
- One of Japan's three famous hot springs
- Fantastic ryokan town atmosphere
- Winter snowscapes are exquisite
๐งณ Ryokan Pre-Visit Checklist
โ
Confirm check-in time (3 PM)
โ
Call in advance if you'll be late
โ
Decide dinner time (6 PM - 7:30 PM)
โ
Inquire in advance if you have tattoos
โ
Memorize how to wear a yukata (left over right!)
โ
Confirm if the nightly rate is per person
โ
Confirm check-out time (10 AM)
โ
Be aware that minibar/drinks are charged separately
๐ More Detailed Official Information
For those who want more detailed information on ryokan etiquette or how to wear a yukata, here are links to official websites.
- Kumamoto Prefecture Tourism Official Site - Onsen Bathing and Yukata Wearing
- Kusatsu Onsen Official Site - Ryokan Manners Guide
Both sites support Korean and provide highly reliable information from official Japanese local authorities.
โจย A Final Word
A ryokan offers a completely different experience from a hotel.
Following the established flow is key.
- Check-in โ By 5 PM, call if late
- Yukata โ Left over right, right underneath
- Dinner โ Observe designated time, don't force yourself to eat everything
- Onsen โ Wash body before entering, towel outside the bath
- Room โ Tatami is delicate, be gentle, be quiet
It might feel awkward and flustering at first, but once you've experienced it, you'll truly want to go again.
That level of hospitality and formality, which you can't experience in Korea, is worth trying at least once.
If you're planning your next trip to Japan, consider adding a ryokan stay.
One night could become a lifelong memory.