One of the dreams of traveling to Japan is that, isn't it? Sitting at a gleaming wooden counter, being served sushi by a white-clad artisan who expertly prepares it right before your eyes. Perhaps because I've seen it so many times in movies and dramas, it feels like you haven't truly experienced Japan unless you do. Even the quiet tension, with only the sound of a knife hitting the cutting board and customers softly ordering sake, seems cool.
It was during my first trip to Fukuoka. In an alley in Hakata, I found a sushi restaurant with an old noren (暖簾) half-down, clearly a 'local's favorite.' I peeked inside, and there were one or two seats open at the counter. My heart pounded. 'Can I sit there?', 'I don't speak Japanese, how do I order?', 'Will everyone stare at me the moment I sit down?' After a million thoughts, I quietly closed the door and headed to a nearby ramen shop with table seating. The ramen I ate that day was delicious, but that sushi counter kept lingering in my mind.
Many of you have probably had similar experiences. This vague fear actually arises from confusing the 'high-end omakase sushi-ya' we imagine with the 'ordinary machi no sushi-ya (町の寿司屋)' in the neighborhood. Not every counter is a solemn stage from <Mr. Sushi King>. Most sushi counters we encounter during our travels are often much more relaxed and practical spaces, not much different from the bar seating at a local kimbap shop, to use an analogy.
So, this article is for those who, like my past self, hesitate before the unnecessary barrier of a Japanese sushi counter. This isn't about expensive, reservation-only omakase, but about regular sushi restaurants where ordinary travelers like us go for a quick lunch or a beer with dinner. I'll share very realistic survival tips for confidently sitting at those counters and enjoying delicious sushi. So you won't have to regretfully turn to a ramen shop again, like I did.
Is the Counter Only for Special People?
To put it simply, absolutely not. Of course, the case is different for high-end omakase sushi-ya with Michelin stars. Those are places for special experiences, where reservations are difficult, interaction with the chef is valued, and you pay a high price. But most sushi counters you encounter during your travels have a completely different character.
So, how do you tell if a place is welcoming? A few checks from outside the shop can give you a clue. If there's a menu with prices clearly displayed outside, or a signboard with 'Today's Recommendation' or 'Lunch Special,' it's almost certainly a welcoming sign. Conversely, if the sign only has the shop's name, or the door is firmly closed and you can't see inside at all, you might need to be a bit more cautious. If a lively atmosphere spills out from the door, there's a high chance it's a place with plenty of seats for travelers like us.
In these typical sushi restaurants, counter seating is simply 'the most efficient spot for solo diners or pairs,' nothing more, nothing less. In fact, groups of three or more are usually guided to table seating. Its location right in front of the chef means orders are quicker, and it's easier to get green tea refills. Most importantly, unless it's omakase, remember that the counter is not a place for special treatment, but merely a type of seating for 1-2 people. From the restaurant's perspective, a customer who eats deliciously, even if they speak broken Japanese, is much more welcome than an empty counter.
Once, I sat at a sushi counter in a Sapporo market, and the Japanese grandfather next to me ate three pieces of tuna sushi and a cold beer in just 15 minutes before coolly leaving. It's similar to someone in our country stopping by a snack bar for a serving of tteokbokki on their way home from work. The vague apprehension we feel is mostly a self-imposed hurdle of imagination. For them, the counter is just a part of everyday life.
In fact, the counter offers pleasures that table seating doesn't. You can browse the fresh fish displayed in the glass showcase (neta case, ネタケース) right in front of you, deciding what to eat next, and it's fun to watch the skilled chef's movements up close. Being able to taste sushi that's just been made and still slightly warm the moment it's placed on your plate is also a privilege of counter seating. It's not just a 'place to eat,' but an 'experiential space' with small things to watch.
Now, you definitely know that the counter isn't just for special people. You've also gained the courage to open the door and ask if there's a seat. So, now comes the real challenge. When you sit down and are handed a menu, what exactly should you say and how?
I can't speak Japanese, how do I order?
This is probably the biggest concern. But we live in an era of smartphones and the universal language of 'body language.' Many places frequented by tourists have English menus or photo menus.
My secret weapon is to sit down, smile brightly, and ask, "Eigo menyu, arimasu ka? (Do you have an English menu?)" Even if they don't, there's no need to panic. A simple "Kore, onegaishimasu (This one, please)" while pointing at the menu is enough. A step further, a useful tip is to directly point at the fresh fish (neta) displayed in the transparent showcase right in front of the counter. This is a silent signal that 'I'm interested in fresh ingredients today,' which chefs subtly appreciate. Your finger and Google Translate—with just these two, ordering is practically done. Just in case, I sometimes write down phrases like 'Wasabi nuki de onegaishimasu (No wasabi, please)' or 'Osusume wa nandesu ka? (What do you recommend?)' in my smartphone's notepad beforehand.
Conclusion: Realistic Counter Strategy Tips for Beginners
Now that you've learned how to order, it's time to upgrade your entire counter experience. A sushi counter isn't just a place to eat; it's a special seat where you can watch the chef's artistry up close and taste the freshest sushi. There's no need to start with a high-end sushi-ya boasting Michelin stars. Begin with a lively shop in Tsukiji Market or a local sushi restaurant frequented by neighborhood residents. Once you sit down, you'll quickly realize that everyone is more focused on their own sushi than on others, contrary to what you might have imagined.
For your successful first counter attempt, I've compiled a few more highly practical tips:
- Start with a conveyor belt sushi counter: There's no better place to start your counter experience. You don't need to say a word; just pick up plates passing on the conveyor belt. It's excellent practice for getting used to the physical distance of counter seating and eye contact with the chef, which can feel awkward. It's also great for observing how other customers order and pay to get a feel for the atmosphere.
- Aim for lunchtime: Most sushi restaurants offer much more affordable lunch sets than dinner. These often come in the form of 'nigiri sets' or 'kaisendon (seafood rice bowls)' priced between 1,000 and 2,000 yen, offering both value and peace of mind. You don't have to worry about 'what to order next'; a simple "Lunch set, onegaishimasu" will get you a complete meal, which is very relaxing.
- Look for places with order sheets: This is a common cheat code found in large chains like Sushi Zanmai or popular family-friendly restaurants. You check the quantity next to the desired sushi name and submit it, allowing you to order easily by just looking at pictures, even if you don't know any Japanese.
- The magic two phrases: 'Oishii' and 'Gochisousama deshita': If the sushi is truly delicious, when you make eye contact with the chef, nod slightly and say, "Oishii (It's delicious)!" A faint smile on the chef's face is a bonus. When you leave after eating, say "Gochisousama deshita (Thank you for the meal)" while paying. With just these two phrases, you can be a wonderful customer who truly enjoys the food, not a rude foreign tourist.
- Soy sauce usage, no stress: The proper way to use soy sauce is to flip the sushi and lightly dip the fish (neta), not the rice (shari). This prevents the rice from absorbing too much soy sauce, making it too salty and easily falling apart. However, this is more of a tip for enjoying sushi more deliciously than a strict etiquette rule. It's best to eat it in a comfortable way that tastes good, rather than dropping the sushi into the soy sauce dish trying to follow the rules. The All Japan Sushi Association's official guide also introduces basic methods, so you can refer to it.
- Ask before taking photos: You'll want to capture the beautiful sushi in front of you. Usually, taking quiet photos of your own food is fine. However, it's always safest and most polite to ask, "Shashin, totte mo ii desu ka? (Is it okay to take photos?)" before you do. Especially avoid angles that include the chef's face or other customers.
Finally, a few small but important additions. Strong perfumes or hand cream scents can interfere with enjoying the delicate aroma of fish, so try to refrain from them on that day. And it's not rude at all to eat sushi with your hands. In fact, in more formal establishments, eating with your hands is sometimes considered the proper way. Of course, you should clean your hands with a wet towel (oshibori) beforehand.
A sushi counter is by no means a difficult test. With a little courage, it's a stage where you can have one of the most vivid culinary experiences of your trip to Japan. Keep these tips in your pocket like emergency medicine, and confidently open the door to a shop that catches your eye. The best piece of sushi, made with the chef's dedication, awaits you.