On my first day in Taichung, I confidently set out with Google Maps, only to find myself circling the same spot for over 30 minutes. The map clearly showed it was a 5-minute walk, so why was I stuck? The scorching Taiwanese sun and humidity enveloped me, and amidst the constant roar of passing scooters, my sense of direction quickly evaporated.
This is both the charm and the pitfall of Taichung's old downtown. Key landmarks like Miyahara, Fourth Credit Union, and Taichung Station are surprisingly close to each other. However, the paths connecting them are often interrupted by wide roads and complex intersections, and Google Maps' 'shortest route' frequently leads us down inconvenient streets or requires multiple crosswalks. The points may be close, but if you draw the 'lines' between them incorrectly, you'll end up wasting precious time and energy on the road, just like I did.
So, from the second day, I deliberately re-planned my route. Instead of just focusing on map distances, I connected the course along pleasant walking paths and a natural narrative flow. Only then did the unfamiliar landscapes begin to fit together like a picture, revealing the true face of Taichung. This article is a Taichung downtown walking tour that I personally completed, hoping that others won't get lost like I did. Let's begin our walk together, starting from Taichung Station, where past and present coexist.
A Journey Through Time Starting at Taichung Station
If you don't want to get lost on the road like yesterday, Taichung Train Station is the perfect starting point for any journey. It's not just a transportation hub, but the most definitive landmark that showcases the city's past and present at a glance. Before our eyes stand the elegant old station (舊站) built with red bricks, and behind it, the modern new station (新站) towering high. The old station, over 100 years old, now serves as an exhibition space and a photo zone for travelers, while actual trains operate from the new station behind it. The coexistence of these two buildings encapsulates the charm of Taichung's old downtown.
Now, with the old station at your back, look out at Taichung city. This is our official starting line for the walk. Crossing the wide road across the station plaza, the next destination is close enough to be seen, but there's no need to rush. The pedestrian signals are long, and the stream of scooters is endless. It's the same scene that flustered me yesterday, but today, with a clear destination, I can enjoy it with more ease. Amidst this complexity of old signboards and modern buildings, look for a red brick building. If there's an unusually long queue, you've found the right place.
After about a 5-minute walk, we arrive at the famous 'Miyahara (宮原眼科)'. Originally an ophthalmology clinic, it was renovated into a dessert shop, but 'pretty shop' doesn't quite do it justice. The moment you step inside, you feel as if you've entered a magical shop from Harry Potter or an old library. Giant bookshelves reaching the high ceiling, antique lighting, and the beautifully packaged desserts filling the space. This place is largely divided into a section for gift sweets and another for ice cream. The queues are different, so make sure to line up according to your purpose to save time.
Miyahara's iconic ice cream has a unique ordering process. First, you choose from dozens of ice cream flavors made with tea leaves and fruits, then move to the side to select a waffle bowl or cup, and finally, choose your highlight toppings. There are so many toppings, like pineapple cakes, cheesecakes, and butterfly-shaped cookies, that it can cause decision paralysis. I chose fragrant oolong tea ice cream topped with rich cheesecake and pineapple cake pieces. The bitterness of the tea combined with the sweetness of the desserts was truly unforgettable. One important thing to note, however, is that there are no seats inside to eat the ice cream. You'll need to take your ice cream outside and eat it on the street.
Unexpected Places Along the Riverside Walk
Stepping out of Miyahara, you'll see a well-maintained small stream, 'Luchuan (Green River, 綠川)', flowing right next to it. Walking along this riverside path is the next part of our tour.
As you walk, listening to the sound of the water cooling the midday heat, you'll encounter another unique building: the 'Fourth Credit Union (第四信用合作社)'. This place is also operated by Miyahara, but it has a distinctly different atmosphere, having been converted from an old bank building. It feels rougher and more industrial, perhaps? If Miyahara feels like a gift shop, this place is more like a cafe where you can comfortably sit and enjoy ice cream. The menu featuring ice cream on waffles is particularly popular. If Miyahara was too crowded and you gave up on getting ice cream, this place can be an excellent alternative. The two locations are less than a 3-minute walk apart.
A little further walk from here will bring you to Taichung Second Market. It's a place where you can catch a glimpse of the vibrant lives of the locals, and it's perfect for breakfast. The radish cake (蘿蔔糕) and Taiwanese sandwiches are must-try items. The market's unique hustle and bustle, combined with the unfamiliar scent of spices, truly make you feel like you've arrived in Taichung.
Conclusion: Taichung, A City That Reveals Itself As You Walk
The key landmarks in Taichung's downtown are actually all clustered within walking distance. From Taichung Station to Miyahara, Luchuan, Fourth Credit Union, and the Second Market. Following the blue line on your map app might take less than an hour. But what's important isn't the speed of connecting the dots, but discovering the city's inner layers that fill the spaces between those dots. Things like the sound of mahjong drifting from beyond old iron windows, the sweet scent of unfamiliar tropical fruits displayed in front of a fruit stall, or the bitter aroma wafting from an old herbal medicine shop.
So, how much time should you allocate? If you just walk, it's short, but considering the time to enjoy ice cream at Miyahara and grab a bite at the Second Market, it's best to set aside at least 3-4 hours, or half a day. In fact, by deciding to 'dedicate the morning to this course' and allowing yourself the flexibility to turn into an alley that catches your eye, you'll truly experience the real fun of this walking tour.
Of course, there are also attractions like Chun Shui Tang or Rainbow Village that require taking a bus and more time to reach. However, this walking tour serves as an excellent first step for your Taichung trip. Once you've familiarized yourself with the geography and atmosphere of the city center, your plans for venturing a bit further on subsequent days will feel much more comfortable and stable. The true charm of Taichung isn't in distant, flashy tourist spots, but hidden in the well-maintained old buildings and the alleys imbued with local life.
Of course, you might get tired from walking, and your feet might ache on uneven sidewalks. In such cases, it's also necessary to be flexible and hop on a bus for a short ride. There are a few essentials that will make this walking tour more comfortable and fulfilling, and I'll discuss those in the next chapter. Discover the city's true face with your own two feet, a face you might have missed when simply passing by on a bus.
Practical Tips for Travelers
As mentioned earlier, to fully enjoy the pleasure of exploring the city on foot, a little preparation is needed. Nothing grand, but these are small yet crucial tips that will surely cut your fatigue in half and double your travel satisfaction.
First and foremost, and most importantly, are comfortable walking shoes. Pretty loafers or sandals are nice, but Taichung's old downtown is a mix of well-paved sidewalks and bumpy paths that seem decades old. Especially in the alleys around the Second Market, where scooters and people constantly weave through, your ankles can experience more strain than you'd expect. Thanks to my well-cushioned running shoes, I was able to walk for over half a day and still feel fine the next morning.
EasyCard, Taichung Travel Cheat Sheet
Your secret weapon for when you get tired of walking is the EasyCard. If you have a card you used in Taipei, you can use it as is; otherwise, you can easily purchase and top it up at the airport or convenience stores. Taichung city buses are free for distances within 10km when using an EasyCard! It's truly a magical benefit. When you need to travel an awkward one or two stops from Miyahara to the Second Market, or when you need to escape an unexpected downpour, or simply want to rest your legs, don't hesitate to hop on the next bus that comes your way. Just quickly check the route map to ensure it's going in your direction. How flexibly you utilize this 'free bus' opportunity will change the quality of your walking tour.
Cash and Offline Map Preparation
For Google Maps, be smart and download the relevant area in advance in Korea to save it as an offline map. This provides a reliable backup so you don't get lost in narrow alleys or inside buildings where data SIMs might not work well. Also, to not miss the joy of buying a freshly made Lo Mi Fan (糯米飯) at the Second Market or a street-side bubble tea, some cash is essential. For snacks along this route, excluding a grand meal, about 300-500 New Taiwan Dollars per person should be sufficient.
Finally, don't underestimate Taichung's sun. Even on cloudy days, UV rays are strong, and on clear days, you can start sweating after just 10 minutes of walking. I recommend carrying a small bottle of water, a portable fan, and sunscreen in your bag. Of course, stopping at one of the many tea shops throughout the city for a refreshing bubble tea to cool down whenever you're thirsty is another pleasure of walking in Taichung. These small preparations will make your Taichung downtown walk a much more comfortable and enjoyable memory.