Mastering Koh Chang’s Transportation: Songthaews vs. Scooters—Which Is Best for Travelers?

After a five-hour bus ride from Bangkok, I arrived at the Trat pier, and from there, I took a ferry for over 30 minutes. I still can’t forget the sweltering heat that hit me the moment I finally set foot on Koh Chang. But the thrill of the long journey was short-lived. When I saw the fleet of white pickup trucks—the so-called “songthaews”—hailing passengers as they disembarked from the ferry, my mind went blank. Are those taxis? How on earth am I supposed to get to the hotel in one of those?

Koh Chang is a much larger and longer island than you might expect. Stretching north to south, the beaches, accommodations, and restaurants are scattered along the western side of the island. The problem is that the only road connecting all these places is a single, winding two-lane highway. That’s why the nature of your Koh Chang trip changes completely depending on which mode of transportation you choose. Will you embark on an adventure exploring every nook and cranny, or will you stick to the main spots safely, even if it’s a bit inconvenient? You’ll find yourself at this crossroads right from the very start of your travel planning.

That’s right. Koh Chang doesn’t have a well-developed public transportation system like Phuket or Bangkok. You can’t get a Grab, and there are no buses. That’s why the biggest headache when planning my trip was figuring out how to get around Koh Chang. Can you get around without renting a car? Are songthaews safe? Is it true that scooters are dangerous? If you’re planning a trip to Koh Chang, you’ve probably asked yourself these questions at least once. I’ll share the realistic pros and cons of Koh Chang’s transportation based on my own experience, along with criteria to help you choose the option that best fits your travel style. Let’s start with the first option: the songthaew.

Ko Chang’s Main Mode of Transportation: Songthaew—To Ride or Not to Ride?

Ko Chang’s only form of public transportation is the white pickup truck known as the “songthaew.” It’s a modified pickup truck with long benches facing each other on both sides. As soon as you step off the ferry and see these white trucks lined up, you’ll likely be skeptical about the idea of riding in that cargo bed up and down those steep hills. To be honest, I was a little scared at first, too.

Songthaews operate continuously back and forth along the island’s west coast road, with no fixed routes or stops. There’s no set schedule; you simply stand by the roadside and wave down a passing Songthaew. It’s a very basic system: you tell the driver your destination, haggle over the price, and then hop on. Most people use this service when heading from the ferry terminal to their accommodations at White Sand Beach, Kai Bae Beach, or Lonely Beach. Since multiple passengers get on and off along the way, the driver often doesn’t go straight to your destination but stops at other hotels or restaurants first. You pay the fare directly to the driver when you get off.

However, this very price is the biggest variable when using a songthaew. Since there is no set fare schedule, the price is essentially whatever the driver asks for. Of course, there is an unspoken going rate shared among travelers. Typically, it’s 50–60 baht per person from the ferry pier to White Sand Beach, 100 baht to Kai Bae Beach, and around 150 baht to Lonely Beach, the southernmost point. But this is strictly based on “when there are many passengers.” If you’re the only passenger or it’s late at night, drivers won’t hesitate to charge more than double the price.

So, there are a few tips to keep in mind when taking a songthaew. First, before getting in, you must ask, “Kai Bae Beach, one person, how much?” to clearly confirm the price per person. If you’re traveling with others, it’s better to lock in a per-person price rather than haggling over the total amount—this prevents any back-and-forth later. What if the quoted price is too high? You need the composure to calmly shake your head and wait for the next one. There’s a good chance another songthaew will be right behind it. Another thing: the price for a “private charter” (renting the entire songthaew) is completely different from a “shared ride” (riding with others). If your group has four or more people, renting the whole vehicle might actually be cheaper and faster, so it’s wise to do the math depending on the situation.

I remember one time late at night when I was trying to get back from Khae Bae Beach to White Sand Beach, and the driver quoted 200 baht per person. It was more than double the usual price, but since there weren’t any other songthaews in sight and the road was pitch-black, I had no choice but to take it. Of course, the experience of riding in a songthaew is special in itself. Feeling the exhaust fumes and the warm breeze all over your body while gazing at Koh Chang’s lush jungle and the sparkling sea that suddenly appears around every corner is quite romantic. However, the inconvenience of waiting for a vehicle that might never come, having to haggle over the price every time, and not being able to move around as I pleased were definite drawbacks.

If you want freedom, is a scooter the answer?

If you’re tired of explaining your destination and haggling over prices every time you take a songthaew, or if you’re craving the freedom to explore Koh Chang on your own terms beyond the usual routes, you’ll naturally turn to renting a scooter. For just 200–300 baht (about 8,000–12,000 KRW) a day, being able to go anywhere on the island at your own pace is a temptation that’s hard to resist.

After riding songthaews for a few days, I eventually rented a scooter myself. The freedom to explore the quiet fishing villages on the island’s east coast—places hard to reach by songthaew—as well as nameless beaches and hidden waterfalls was truly sweet. But keep this in mind: this freedom comes with significant responsibility and clear dangers.

Ko Chang’s roads are so dangerous that “notorious” is the perfect word to describe them. In particular, the hill road between Kai Bae Beach and Lonely Beach is so steep and full of sharp curves that it’s often called a “roller coaster.” It’s a dizzying downhill stretch where you gain speed even if you keep your foot on the brakes. I, too, thought my heart would stop when I was coming down that road and a songthaew came barreling toward me from the opposite direction, crossing the center line. The road is pitted with potholes, there’s slippery sand near the beach, and it’s common for dogs or monkeys to suddenly dart out. There are also many sections without streetlights, so once the sun sets, the road turns pitch black.

Scooter Rental: Recommended
Only for These People: Those who hold a Class 2 Small Vehicle License in Korea, have extensive actual driving experience, and are familiar with the rough road conditions of Southeast Asia. An International Driving Permit and travel insurance that covers motorcycle accidents abroad are not optional—they are mandatory. Thinking, “I’ve ridden a scooter a bit in Korea,” is the most dangerous mindset you can have on Koh Chang’s roads.

Ultimately, a scooter in Koh Chang isn’t just a means of transportation; it’s a matter of “choice” that defines the nature of your trip. Will you take a thrilling risk to gain complete freedom, or will you accept a little inconvenience and choose safety? The answer to this question is the key to finding the mode of transportation that best suits your travel style.

Conclusion: Finding the Right Mode of Transportation for Your Koh Chang Trip

As mentioned earlier, a scooter on Koh Chang isn’t just a means of transportation; it’s a “choice” that completely transforms the nature of your trip. In fact, Koh Chang feels like a completely different island when you’re riding a songthaew versus a scooter. That’s why there’s no single “right” answer. There’s only the method that’s “right for you.” To determine which choice will make your trip more enjoyable, take a final look at the criteria below.

Asking yourself a few questions will make the decision much easier.

• Is the main purpose of this trip to “relax” on a quiet beach, or to “explore” every nook and cranny of the island?
• Do you enjoy unpredictable situations (waiting, haggling, unfamiliar roads), or do they stress you out?
• When faced with Koh Chang’s infamous hill roads, will you see them as a “thrilling challenge” or a “heart-stopping terror”?
• Are you traveling with a group? If you’re traveling with children or parents, safety should be your top priority.

It’s important to clearly understand the pros and cons of each mode of transportation before making a choice. If you’re willing to put up with a bit of discomfort and the hassle of haggling, the songthaew is the most economical and convenient option. Especially if you’re staying in a bustling area like White Sand Beach or Kai Bae Beach and plan to explore the surrounding area, a songthaew is more than enough. On the other hand, provided you’re a skilled rider, a scooter offers the freedom to explore hidden beaches and waterfalls that are inaccessible by songthaew. But don’t forget that the price of that freedom can be much higher than you might expect.

If you’re an inexperienced driver, traveling with young children, or on a short 2–3 day trip, using songthaews as your primary mode of transportation and renting a car for just one day is an excellent alternative. Hiring a taxi with a driver for a day (usually 8 hours) costs around 1,500–2,500 baht, but it’s a worthwhile investment since you can tour the island’s main attractions comfortably and safely in air-conditioned comfort.

Ultimately, transportation in Koh Chang isn’t about “buying convenience,” but rather a process of choosing a travel style that suits you and deciding what level of “inconvenience” you’re willing to tolerate. No matter which mode of transportation you choose, the pros and cons are clear, so just focus on enjoying Koh Chang’s natural beauty in a way that feels right for you. Now it’s time to explore some final practical tips to help you make that choice.

Practical Tips for Travelers

For those of you who’ve put the long debate over songthaews and scooters behind you and have arrived in Koh Chang, here are a few final practical tips that will transform your travel experience. They may seem trivial, but the difference between knowing and not knowing these tips is greater than you might think.

Before getting into a songthaew, stating your destination and confirming the price first is the absolute basics. “Kai Bae Beach, one person, how much?” That one sentence is all you need. Typically, when traveling between major beaches like White Sand, Kai Bae, and Lonely Beach, the fare is usually between 50 and 100 baht per person, though prices go up at night or when there are fewer passengers. If they quote an outrageous price, there’s no need to argue—just say “OK, thank you” and walk away. Another songthaew will come along within five minutes anyway. It’s convenient for both parties if you have small bills (20, 50, or 100 baht) ready in advance.

And this cannot be emphasized enough: unless you’re not just “somewhat” familiar with riding a scooter but have extensive experience navigating winding mountain roads, do not rent one. The hills of Koh Chang aren’t just steep—there are too many hazards, from dogs darting out suddenly to sand on the road and unpredictable potholes. When renting, be sure to thoroughly check the brakes and tire condition, and filming every angle of the scooter before you set off is a smart way to avoid potential disputes. It goes without saying that you should choose a place that accepts a cash deposit instead of your passport.

An international driver’s license is not optional—it’s mandatory. Not only is getting pulled over by the police a problem, but in the event of an accident, you’ll be considered unlicensed and won’t be eligible for any insurance benefits. Your license must have a stamp in the “A” (motorcycle) category, which corresponds to South Korea’s Class 2 Small Vehicle License. Be sure to check the relevant information in advance on the Korea Road Traffic Authority’s Safe Driving Integrated Services website. It’s also crucial to remember that most rental shops’ insurance is merely basic liability coverage that does not cover the cost of repairing your own vehicle.

Your accommodation location will determine your Koh Chang transportation strategy. If you stay along the main road on the west side, where songthaews run frequently—especially in areas with a high concentration of restaurants and amenities like White Sand Beach or Kai Bae Beach—your transportation stress will be cut in half. If you choose a secluded resort on the eastern coast or in the south, this essentially means you’re either “giving up the freedom to move around and relaxing at the resort” or “accepting the cost of a scooter or rental car.” After 10 p.m., catching a songthaew is like finding a needle in a haystack, so if you plan to enjoy a late dinner or visit a bar, it’s best to plan your itinerary around accommodations near your lodging.