Late April, cherry blossoms long gone, so why were flights to Japan so expensive? I vividly remember my disbelief when I opened Skyscanner, wanting to spontaneously travel alone. I didn't know then that I was about to plunge into the heart of Japan's biggest holiday, the infamous 'Golden Week'.
My vague idea that a long holiday would be nice, and the naive assumption that there would be fewer people on weekdays, shattered the moment I arrived at Narita Airport. The immigration line was already a bad sign. The train into central Tokyo from the airport was a 'hell train' packed with people, not the start of the solitary and romantic solo trip I had dreamed of. Swept up in the massive crowds, I realized I was a small boat caught in a giant wave. This was my first impression of Golden Week (ゴールデンウィーク), which I experienced firsthand.
What exactly is Golden Week?
The crowds that threatened to swallow me whole from the airport onwards – that was Golden Week. It's a period that seasoned Japan travelers all shake their heads at. It's easy to understand if you think of our New Year or Chuseok holidays, but the atmosphere is quite different. Imagine a massive 'tourism procession' covering all of Japan, as huge as the homecoming rush, and you'll have an accurate picture.
It's not just a one or two-day holiday. Depending on how public holidays like Showa Day (April 29), Constitution Memorial Day (May 3), Greenery Day (May 4), and Children's Day (May 5) align with weekends from late April to early May, a huge holiday period of 7, or even up to 10 days, can emerge. The crowds we encounter aren't just foreign tourists, but Japanese locals using up their entire year's vacation during this time. The exact dates vary slightly each year, so it's essential to check the public holidays for the current year on the Japan National Tourism Organization (JNTO) website.
The year I went, flight prices soared to 2.5 times their usual cost, and a single room in a business hotel in central Tokyo, which normally cost 80,000 won, easily exceeded 250,000 won. This was just the beginning. Reserved seats on Shinkansen and major express trains sell out almost instantly when booking opens, and tickets for popular attractions like the Ghibli Museum become virtually a 'lottery'. Booking one or two months in advance is often considered 'too late'. It's truly a time when it's hard to enjoy yourself even with money, and prices are 'whatever they ask for'.
The Bright Side of Golden Week
The weather, at least, never disappoints. It's neither too hot nor too cold, perfect for walking all day with just a light jacket – truly ideal travel weather. Adding to the charm are the giant carp streamers, 'koinobori', displayed for Children's Day, adorning the Japanese skies, and the various festivals and special events held in different regions, creating a much livelier atmosphere than usual.
The Dark Side of Golden Week
It goes beyond just being expensive and crowded. Exorbitant flight and accommodation costs are standard. Bustling areas like Shibuya and Shinjuku, and even hidden local restaurants in quiet neighborhoods, require a 1-2 hour wait. The Yamanote Line in central Tokyo is more crowded than during rush hour, and non-reserved seats on the Shinkansen to Kyoto are packed to the aisles. You should expect to encounter two major obstacles at every stage of your trip: 'waiting' and 'exceeding your budget'.
By now, it's natural to wonder, 'Why on earth would anyone travel during this time?' You're torn between the sweet temptation of perfect weather and a festive atmosphere, and the harsh reality of killer prices and crowds. So, if you absolutely must travel during Golden Week, knowing all this, is there any way to wisely survive the crowd hell?
Surviving the Crowd Hell: Is it Even Possible?
To put it simply, 'surviving' is possible, but 'enjoying' is a different matter. The perfect weather and festive atmosphere I mentioned in the previous chapter come at an unimaginably steep price. When I went to Fushimi Inari Shrine in Kyoto, I didn't get to see the endless red torii gates; instead, I mostly saw the backs of countless people's heads. It felt less like a serene shrine and more like walking on a giant human conveyor belt. Taking a proper photo was a luxury, and even moving forward through the crowds was a struggle. It was a constant battle of wits, making it hard to even get a decent selfie, let alone a 'life shot'.
It was even worse in Tokyo. I decided to go to a famous sushi restaurant in Shibuya, but Google Maps showed an estimated wait time of 3 hours. This isn't a unique failure story; it's a common occurrence during Golden Week. In the end, I had dinner with a katsu sando bought from a nearby convenience store. My imagined elegant solo meal turned into eating a convenience store sandwich perched on my hotel bed. There's a term for Japanese office workers who struggle to find a place to eat during lunch, 'lunch refugees (ランチ難民)', and during Golden Week, I, as a traveler, was no exception.
Especially for solo travel, the biggest advantages – 'freedom' and 'leisure' – are virtually non-existent during Golden Week. In fact, there were many moments when being alone made me feel more exhausted and forlorn. If I had companions, we could chat while waiting, but enduring a 2-hour wait alone is pure agony. Even if I managed to secure a seat in a food court, I'd be anxious that someone might take it while I went to order. The joy of walking at my own pace and spontaneously entering places as I pleased vanished without a trace in the wave of crowds.
The crowd problem doesn't just end with 'there are many people'; it affects every aspect of the trip. For example, the Yamanote Line in central Tokyo is more crowded than during rush hour, forcing you to let the next train, and the one after that, pass before you can barely get on. Coin lockers at stations are often all in use from early morning, meaning you might have to carry your luggage around. And what about the lines for restrooms at tourist spots? These minor but constant inconveniences accumulate, quickly draining your physical and mental energy. It's an environment where the quality of your trip is bound to suffer.
Conclusion: Practical Tips for a Regret-Free Golden Week Trip
You might be intimidated by my previous descriptions of experiences like the 'human conveyor belt'. And yes, Golden Week is not a gentle travel destination. However, for those who absolutely must visit Japan during this period, or for the brave souls willing to throw themselves into the special vibrancy that only this chaos can offer, I'm sharing the survival strategies I learned firsthand. These aren't just tips; they are the minimum safeguards to protect your trip from regret.
- All bookings should be 'open run' style, at least 6 months in advance
For flights and accommodation, it's not just 'the earlier, the better'; it's 'book it as soon as you see it'. The hope of 'something better will come along later' doesn't exist during Golden Week. Especially for Shinkansen and express trains, which handle inter-city travel, reservations open one month before the boarding date at 10 AM (Japan time), and popular routes can sell out in just 5 minutes. If your travel plans are confirmed, set a phone alarm and commit to an 'open run' on the official JR booking site. Not only tourist hotels but also business hotel chains used by Japanese office workers become fully booked, so it's crucial to broaden your accommodation options and secure them in advance. - The courage to leave big cities and find 'your own Japan'
Forget Tokyo, Osaka, and Kyoto for a while. During this period, they are essentially giant queues. Instead, if you look to other regions of Japan, you might make unexpected discoveries. The criterion is simple: choose 'places others don't know well yet' rather than 'places I want to go'.
For example, if you're interested in art and architecture, consider Naoshima or Takamatsu in Shikoku. If you desire tranquil nature and hot springs, the Tohoku region's Akita or Yamagata could be options. Kanazawa in Hokuriku is also a good alternative, but be aware that it can also be quite crowded, being called 'Little Kyoto'. The key is that by simply leaving the big cities, you can reduce 80% of the crowd stress. However, for smaller cities, you'll also need to book rental cars or local buses in advance to avoid being stranded. - One place a day, and a bold 'Plan B'
Throw out your usual packed schedule of visiting 2-3 places a day. During Golden Week, travel and waiting times can increase unpredictably. A 15-minute subway ride might take 45 minutes, including the time spent pushing through packed platforms. It's better to decide on 'just one main quest for today' and focus on visiting your most desired spot right at opening time. For example, if you're going to see the Great Buddha of Kamakura, you should arrive by 9 AM at the latest to explore it leisurely.
It's more relaxing to leave your afternoon schedule open. If you've successfully completed your main quest, why not take a stroll through a quiet residential area near your accommodation, or spend some time idly in a local teahouse frequented by locals? A 'Plan B' is also essential for when you're unexpectedly blocked by crowds. If the wait for the restaurant you wanted to go to is 2 hours? Quick thinking, like saving a list of nearby department store food halls or local supermarkets on Google Maps in advance, will determine your travel satisfaction. - The joy of gourmet food: 'queue-worthy restaurants' aren't everything
Just as I gave up on a 3-hour wait in Shibuya and ate a convenience store sandwich, dining during Golden Week is a test of patience. But there's a much more enjoyable way to pass this test: actively utilizing department store basements, known as 'depachika', and local 'supermarkets'.
Depachika are not just food sections; they are culinary heavens where branches of famous restaurants, artisan sushi and tempura, and dazzling desserts gather. Especially after 7 PM, when closing sales begin, there's the added fun of 'snagging' high-end dishes at half price. Enjoying these foods comfortably in your hotel room can be a much more satisfying 'solo meal' than eating exhaustedly in a noisy restaurant. The quality of Japanese convenience store food is, by now, beyond praise. This isn't a compromise; it's a smart and delicious strategic choice.
Golden Week certainly offers perfect weather and a festive atmosphere that electrifies all of Japan. But it demands a harsh price in return. If you're looking for quiet 'healing' or 'contemplation' alone, I honestly recommend a different time. However, if you want to fully experience the vibrant energy of Japan that can only be found during this period, prepare thoroughly using the strategies I've shared today as your compass. Redefining the nature of your trip from ordinary sightseeing to your own special adventure, navigating the waves of crowds – that is the only way to fill your Golden Week trip with a sense of accomplishment, not regret.