After a 5-hour bus ride from Bangkok to Trat pier, and then another 30+ minute ferry ride, I still can't forget the hot air that hit me the moment I stepped onto Koh Chang. But the excitement of the long journey was short-lived; seeing the group of white pickup trucks, known as 'songthaews,' touting for passengers as soon as we disembarked from the ferry, my mind went blank. Is that a taxi? How am I supposed to get to my hotel in that?
Koh Chang is a surprisingly large and elongated island. Beaches, accommodations, and restaurants are scattered along the long western side of the island. The problem is that the only road connecting all these places is a winding two-lane road. So, how you choose to get around completely changes the nature of your Koh Chang trip. Will you embark on an adventure, freely exploring every corner, or will you stick to major spots safely, even if it's a bit inconvenient? You're faced with this choice right from the start of your trip planning.
That's right. Koh Chang doesn't have a well-developed public transport system like Phuket or Bangkok. Grab isn't available, and there are no buses. So, the biggest headache when planning my trip was the Koh Chang transport issue. Can I get around without a rental? Are songthaews safe? Is it true that scooters are dangerous? These are probably questions anyone planning a trip to Koh Chang has asked themselves. I'll share the realistic pros and cons of Koh Chang transport based on my own experience, and criteria for choosing what suits your travel style. Let's start with the first option, the songthaew.
Koh Chang's Wheels, the Songthaew: To Ride or Not to Ride?
Koh Chang's only public transport is the white pickup truck called a 'songthaew.' It's a truck bed converted with long benches facing each other on both sides. When you see these white trucks lined up as soon as you get off the ferry, you'll probably be skeptical that they carry people up and down those rough hills. I was honestly a bit scared at first.
Songthaews operate continuously, shuttling north and south along the island's western coastal road, without fixed routes or stops. There's no set timetable; you just stand by the road, wave down a passing songthaew, tell the driver your destination, negotiate the price, and hop on. It's a very rudimentary system. Most people use them to get from the ferry pier to their accommodation in White Sand Beach, Klong Prao Beach, or Lonely Beach. Since multiple passengers get on and off along the way, they often make stops at other hotels or restaurants before reaching your destination. You pay the driver directly when you get off.
However, the priceis the biggest variable when using a songthaew. There's no fixed fare, so it's essentially whatever the driver charges. Of course, there's an unspoken market rate shared among travelers. Typically, it's about 50-60 baht per person from the ferry pier to White Sand Beach, 100 baht to Klong Prao Beach, and around 150 baht to Lonely Beach, the southernmost point. But these are only guidelines for when there are many people. If you're the only passenger, or if it's late at night, drivers will not hesitate to charge double or more.
So, there are a few tricks to riding a songthaew. First, always confirm the price per person before getting in: "Klong Prao Beach, one person, how much?" If there are several of you, it's better to agree on a price per person rather than a total sum to avoid disputes later. If the quoted price is too high? Don't be afraid to shake your head and wait for the next one. There's a high chance another songthaew will be right behind. Also, the price for chartering an entire songthaew for a 'private charter' is completely different from sharing it with others ('join'). If you're a group of 4 or more, it might be cheaper and faster to charter one, so it's smart to do the math depending on the situation.
One time, late in the evening, I was trying to get back from Kai Bae Beach to White Sand Beach, and the driver quoted 200 baht per person. It was more than double the usual price, but since there weren’t any other songthaews in sight and the road was pitch-black, I remember having no choice but to take it. Of course, the experience of riding a songthaew is special in itself. It’s quite romantic to feel the exhaust fumes and the warm breeze all over your body while gazing at Koh Chang’s lush jungle and the sparkling sea that suddenly appears around every corner. However, the inconvenience of waiting for a vehicle that might not show up, having to haggle over the price every time, and not being able to go where I wanted were definite drawbacks.
If You Want Freedom, Is a Scooter the Answer?
If you're tired of explaining your destination and haggling over prices every time you take a songthaew, or if you crave to explore Koh Chang beyond the set routes, you'll naturally turn to scooter rental. The temptation of being able to go anywhere on the island for 200-300 baht (approximately 8,000-12,000 KRW) a day is truly hard to resist.
I, too, ended up renting a scooter after a few days of taking songthaews. The freedom to explore quiet fishing villages on the east side of the island, unknown beaches, and hidden waterfalls that were hard to reach by songthaew was truly sweet. But remember, this freedom comes with great responsibility and clear risks.
Koh Chang's roads are notoriously dangerous. The hill road between Klong Prao Beach and Lonely Beach, in particular, is incredibly steep with many sharp curves, earning it the nickname 'rollercoaster.' It's a dizzying downhill stretch where you accelerate even with continuous braking. I almost had a heart attack coming down that road when a songthaew came speeding around a corner, crossing the center line. The roads are riddled with potholes, slippery sand covers areas near the beaches, and dogs or monkeys suddenly dart out onto the road. Many sections lack streetlights, turning the roads pitch black after sunset.
Scooter Rental, Only Recommended for These Individuals
Those who hold a Class 2 small motorcycle license in their home country, have extensive actual driving experience, and are accustomed to the rough road conditions of Southeast Asia. Carrying an international driving permit and travel insurance that covers motorcycle accidents abroad is not an option, but a necessity. Confidence like 'I've ridden scooters a bit back home?' can be the most dangerous thought on Koh Chang's roads.
- Rental Shop Selection Criteria
Choose a place that accepts a cash deposit (usually 1,000-3,000 baht) instead of your passport. The moment you hand over your passport, you risk becoming a 'hostage' to unscrupulous operators who might demand excessive repair fees for minor scratches. - Vehicle Condition Check is Essential
Before renting, always take videos and photos of every part of the scooter. Carefully check for existing scratches, tire wear, and the functioning of brakes and headlights, and keep evidence to avoid unfair charges. - Insurance Check
Most rental shop insurance is very basic vehicle damage insurance or often non-existent. You must be aware that responsibility for personal injury/property damage in case of an accident rests entirely with the driver.
Ultimately, a scooter on Koh Chang is not just a means of transport, but a 'choice' that defines the nature of your trip. Will you risk thrilling danger for complete freedom, or choose safety with a bit of inconvenience? The answer to this question will be the key to finding the right mode of transport for your travel style.
Conclusion: Finding the Right Transport for Your Koh Chang Trip
As I mentioned earlier, a scooter on Koh Chang is not just a means of transport, but a 'choice' that completely changes the nature of your trip. Koh Chang feels like a completely different island when you take a songthaew versus a scooter. So, there's no single right answer. There's only the method that's 'right for you.' Review the criteria below to decide which choice will make your trip happier.
Asking yourself a few questions will make the decision much easier.
- Is the main purpose of this trip 'relaxation' on a secluded beach, or 'exploration' of every corner of the island?
- Do you enjoy unpredictable situations (waiting, bargaining, unfamiliar roads), or do they stress you out?
- When faced with Koh Chang's notoriously steep roads, will it feel like an 'exhilarating challenge' or 'terrifying dread'?
- Are you traveling with companions? If you're with children or elderly parents, safety should be the top priority.
It's important to clearly understand the pros and cons of each mode of transport before making a choice. Songthaews are the most economical and hassle-free option if you can tolerate a bit of inconvenience and the need to bargain. Especially if you're staying in a bustling area like White Sand Beach or Klong Prao Beach and plan to move around nearby, songthaews are sufficient. Scooters, on the other hand, assuming you're an experienced rider, offer the freedom to discover hidden beaches and waterfalls inaccessible by songthaew. But don't forget that the cost of that freedom can be much higher than you expect.
If you're an inexperienced driver, traveling with young children, or on a short 2-3 day trip, using songthaews as your primary mode of transport and chartering a car for a day is an excellent alternative. Renting a taxi with a driver for a day (usually based on 8 hours) costs around 1,500-2,500 baht, but it's a worthwhile investment for comfortably and safely exploring the island's main attractions in air-conditioned comfort.
Ultimately, transportation on Koh Chang is less about buying 'convenience' and more about choosing your travel style and the type of 'inconvenience' you're willing to accept. Since the pros and cons of each mode of transport are clear, focus on choosing what suits you best and enjoying Koh Chang's nature. Now it's time for the final practical tips to help you make that choice.
Practical Tips for Travelers
For those of you who have finished agonizing over songthaews and scooters and have arrived in Koh Chang, here are a few final practical tips that will change the quality of your trip. They may seem minor, but the difference between knowing and not knowing them is surprisingly significant.
Before getting into a songthaew, stating your destination and confirming the price is basic. “Klong Prao Beach, one person, how much?” is enough. Typically, travel between major beaches like White Sand, Klong Prao, and Lonely Beach costs 50-100 baht per person, with prices increasing at night or when there are fewer passengers. If they quote an exorbitant price, there's no need to argue; just politely say “OK, thank you” and let them go. Another songthaew will likely arrive within 5 minutes. It's also convenient for both parties to have small denominations of cash (20, 50, 100 baht) ready.
And this cannot be stressed enough: if you're not an 'experienced' scooter driver with extensive experience on winding mountain roads, absolutely do not rent one. Koh Chang's hills are not just steep; they have too many unpredictable hazards like sudden dogs, sand on the road, and unexpected potholes. When renting, always thoroughly check the brakes and tire condition, and take a video of all sides of the scooter before departing. This is a smart way to avoid potential disputes. Choosing a place that accepts a cash deposit instead of your passport is, of course, a given.
An international driving permit is not an option, but a necessity. Not only is getting caught by the police an issue, but in case of an accident, you'll be considered unlicensed and won't receive any insurance benefits. Your permit must have a stamp in section A (motorcycles), corresponding to a Class 2 small motorcycle license from your home country. You can check related information on the Road Traffic Authority's Safe Driving Integrated Civil Service websitein advance. Also, remember that most rental shop insurance is merely basic liability insurance that does not cover vehicle repair costs.
Your accommodation's location dictates your Koh Chang transport strategy. If you stay on the main western road where songthaews frequently pass, especially in areas with many restaurants and conveniences like White Sand Beach or Klong Prao Beach, your transport stress will be cut in half. If you choose a secluded resort on the less-traveled east coast or in the south, it means you're either 'giving up free movement to relax at the resort' or 'willing to bear the cost of a scooter or rental car.' After 10 PM, finding a songthaew is nearly impossible, so if you plan late dinners or bar visits, it's easier to plan your itinerary around your accommodation.