It was late April, and the cherry blossoms had all fallen—so why were the plane tickets so expensive? I thought the cherry blossom season was over and it was finally time to catch my breath, but to my surprise, the price of a flight to Tokyo was on par with the year-end peak season. I had expected a round-trip ticket on a low-cost carrier (LCC) to cost around 200,000 to 300,000 won, but when the price shot well past 500,000 won, I was left wondering what was going on—especially since it wasn’t even a Korean public holiday.
It wasn't until then that I looked at the calendar and slapped my knee. Ah, Golden Week. Japan’s biggest Golden Week holiday was just around the corner. For Korean travelers, it’s not as familiar as cherry blossom season or the summer vacation period—it’s truly a hidden gem known only to those in the know. Just hearing the name made it sound like it would be a special, sparkling trip, but the reality I faced was nothing but endless crowds and signs reading “fully booked” and “sold out.”
It wasn’t just that there were a lot of people. At the Shibuya Scramble Crossing, it wasn’t the usual lively bustle—it felt more like being trapped and swept along by a massive crowd, and even at an ordinary ramen shop, the line wound its way around the corner. Hotel booking sites displayed warnings like “95% of accommodations for this date are fully booked,” and even tickets to art museums—which are usually easy to get—had sold out well in advance. That’s when I realized: “Ah, if I don’t prepare properly, this trip is going to be a disaster. This is on a whole different level from a simple peak season.”
So, is Golden Week a time you should avoid at all costs? Or is there a way to enjoy traveling even amid all this chaos? Before we dive into specific strategies, we first need to fully understand what this massive “Golden Week” is all about.
Golden Week—just hearing the name is scary. What exactly is it?
Golden Week does not refer to a single public holiday. It refers to a series of public holidays spanning from late April to early May, which together form a holiday period that is, quite literally, golden.
Showa Day (April 29), Constitution Memorial Day (May 3), Greenery Day (May 4), Children’s Day (May 5) all fall in a row, and if you take a day off on the weekday in between, you can enjoy an incredibly long break—usually a week, or up to ten days. It’s easy to understand if you think of South Korea’s Lunar New Year or Chuseok holidays, but the scale is beyond imagination. Since almost all Japanese people go on domestic trips or return to their hometowns during this time, a literal “mass exodus” takes place. In fact, the Japan National Tourism Organization (JNTO) even promotes this period as a major travel season. (See the Japan Tourism Agency's Golden Week information page)
I remember getting a chill down my spine when I tried to book a Shinkansen ticket to Kyoto—even though it was two weeks before departure, all time slots were marked as “満席 (fully booked).” In the end, I had to wait in line on the platform for over 30 minutes to get a seat in the expensive non-reserved section. Although I was lucky enough to snag a seat, the aisle was completely blocked by people carrying luggage, making it difficult to even go to the restroom once. This is the reality of Golden Week.
Pros: Things you can only see during this season
The weather is fantastic. It’s definitely appealing to be able to travel in perfect spring weather—neither too hot nor too cold—and to experience the lively atmosphere created by the many local festivals (matsuri) and special events that take place only during this time of year.
Cons: Things You'll Have to Put Up With
The cost of everything—from airfare to lodging—skyrockets by two to three times or more. You can’t escape the extreme crowds anywhere you go—not just at popular tourist spots, but also at train stations, shopping malls, and restaurants. If you were hoping for a “relaxing” and “rejuvenating” experience, you’re bound to be disappointed.
What if you still have to go during Golden Week?
The fact is, the scene of a packed Shinkansen train described in the previous chapter could very well be your future. But what if you’ve already paid for your plane ticket and taken your vacation time? It’s too early to give up. If you can’t change your schedule, you’ll have to change your strategy. The key is simple: “Do the opposite of what everyone else is doing—or do things differently.”
Most domestic travelers in Japan use the long weekend to return to their hometowns or follow “classic” itineraries through places like Kyoto, Osaka, and Fukuoka. So, we should take advantage of this trend by doing the opposite. We can explore unexpected spots in major cities as people leave, or choose small towns as our destinations—places that are still relatively unknown to foreign tourists but beloved by locals.
The appeal of this “Plan B” really hits home once you experience it for yourself. I, too, boldly decided to skip the crowds at Senso-ji Temple in Asakusa and visited the relatively quiet Yanaka (谷中) district instead. Strolling through the alleyways, where the cozy atmosphere of the historic “Yanaka Ginza” shopping district blends with tranquil temples, I was able to fully savor a truly “Japanese” scene. A place where you hear the sound of local residents’ bicycles instead of the noise of tourists—finding such spots is the real charm of a Golden Week trip.
And here's another golden rule: Advance ReservationIt’s not a choice—it’s a survival tool. For anything that takes reservations—art museums, observation decks, theme parks, popular restaurants, and more—pay in advance from Korea before you go. Thinking, “I’ll just buy a ticket there,” will only lead to waiting in line for over an hour or being met with the harsh reality of “sold out.” In particular, be sure to take full advantage of places that sell “time-slot tickets,” such as Shibuya Sky and teamLab. During Golden Week, even these time-slot reservations sell out quickly, so it’s best to book as soon as your travel plans are finalized.
Here's one more helpful tip: When purchasing timed admission tickets, try to aim for the "first time slot" of the day whenever possible. Right after opening, there are no crowds carrying over from the previous time slot, so you can enjoy the attraction most comfortably. You'll have to give up sleeping in, but it's definitely worth it.
Practical Tips for Travelers
It’s no exaggeration to say that “information” and “preparation” are everything when it comes to traveling during Golden Week. Just keeping these few things in mind can greatly reduce your chances of a mishap. First, be sure to book your transportation at least one month in advance. Reserved seats on trains like the Shinkansen can sell out as soon as tickets go on sale. Even if you’re using a JR Pass, reserving a seat is essential. Second, it’s best to book accommodations at least six months in advance—or even a year ahead. If you have no choice but to book at the last minute, targeting outlying areas about 20–30 minutes by subway from the city center is a realistic alternative. Third, avoid peak meal times. By having an early lunch at 11 a.m. or a late lunch around 3–4 p.m.—essentially moving just an hour or two earlier or later than everyone else—you can avoid hellish wait times. Finally, avoid overly tight schedules. It’s good for your mental health to clear your mind and plan to leisurely explore just one or two places a day. Traveling during Golden Week is certainly a tough challenge, but with thorough planning and the wisdom to know when to compromise, it can become a special memory where you experience Japan at its most vibrant. It all depends on how well you prepare.