My first impression of Sapporo was, 'Ah, my toes are disappearing.' Truly, the cold was on a different level from Korea's winter, piercing right to the bone.
I remember tasting heaven with a single sip of hot ramen broth after shivering and finally entering a ramen shop. In contrast, winter in Fukuoka a few years later was a pleasant coolness, perfect for a leisurely stroll with hands in coat pockets. It's the same Japan, yet so different. Every winter, social media is filled with photos of Hokkaido covered in white snow and Kyushu with steam rising from warm hot springs. So the dilemma always arises: where should I go for my next Japan winter tripto avoid regret? Romantic snowy scenery, or escape from the cold? This isn't just a choice of destination; it's a question of what kind of winter I want to experience.
The White Kingdom of Snow: Hokkaido's Romance and Reality
Doesn't everyone dream of it at least once? Imagining shouting "Ogenki desu ka!" across an endless snowy field like the protagonist of the movie 'Love Letter'. The power that makes you willingly endure the 'toe-disappearing cold' I mentioned in the previous chapter comes from such romance.
Hokkaido is the place that turns that imagination into reality. Snowflakes sparkling in the streetlights of Sapporo city, snow piled softly on the gas lamps of Otaru Canal, and the crunching sound of walking on the vast snowy plains of Biei. The quiet and peaceful scenery, as if all the world's noise is buried in the snow, is undeniably breathtaking. Especially if you go during the Sapporo Snow Festival held every early February, you might be mesmerized by the surreal spectacle created by giant snow and ice sculptures. The scenery, shining white by day and bathed in colorful lights by night, creates unforgettable memories.
But behind the romance lies a harsh reality. Hokkaido's average temperature in January and February is below -5 degrees Celsius, and the wind chill makes it feel much colder. When I went, it often dropped below -10 degrees Celsius. The roads are simply sheets of ice. Trying to look stylish will get you into trouble. I vividly remember trying to take pretty photos in Otaru wearing just a coat, only to flee back to my accommodation within 30 minutes. My calves were sore the next day from constantly tensing my body to avoid slipping.
Therefore, clothing and shoe choices determine the quality of your trip. Heattech, thick sweaters, and waterproof/windproof down jackets are basic necessities. Shoes are even more important. Ugg boots are prone to getting wet and slippery, making them dangerous. The best option is insulated boots with anti-slip features, but if that's not possible, definitely buy shoe crampons (anti-slip pads) sold at local convenience stores or Don Quijote. For just about 1,000 yen, they dramatically reduce the risk of falling. Filling your pockets with hand warmers is not just common sense; it's a survival strategy.
A bigger challenge than the cold is 'transportation'. If there's heavy snowfall, it's not uncommon for JR trains connecting Sapporo, Otaru, and Hakodate to be delayed or even suspended. This can be particularly nerve-wracking if it's your last day and you're heading to the airport. So, plan your travel with at least 1-2 hours of extra time, and make it a habit to frequently check real-time operation information on the official JR Hokkaido website. As such, Hokkaido in winter is a demanding but charming destination that can only be fully enjoyed with thorough preparation and a bit of luck.
Don't Like the Cold? How About Warm Southern Kyushu?
If you read about Hokkaido's harsh cold and potential transportation chaos in the previous chapter and got cold feet, the alternative for you is clear. Kyushu is the perfect refuge for travelers who want to enjoy the romance of winter travel without battling bone-chilling cold.
Kyushu's winter is comparable to late autumn or early winter in Korea. With average temperatures in Fukuoka between 5-10 degrees Celsius in January and February, you don't need the full survival gear required for Hokkaido. A light coat is enough for walking around Fukuoka city or leisurely exploring the charming shops of Yufuin. The luxury of ditching half your suitcase's worth of winter gear and packing an extra favorite outfit – that's the start of a Kyushu winter trip. Of course, the sea breeze can be quite chilly, so bringing a scarf or a lightweight down vest for layering would be perfect.
The highlight of a Kyushu winter trip is undoubtedly 'onsen' (hot springs). The charm of an open-air bath where your face is cool in the cold air and your body is immersed in hot spring water is something only those who have experienced it truly understand. But even in 'onsen paradise' Kyushu, you might be at a loss as to where to go. Knowing the characteristics of three representative onsen towns will make your choice easier.
Yufuin (由布院)
It's a delight to stroll through the charming shopping streets, galleries, and pretty cafes. It's consistently popular with couples and female travelers who prefer quiet and private ryokans.
You have to admit that it's hard to expect snowy scenery like Hokkaido. Snow falls very occasionally but rarely accumulates. However, this means you don't have to worry about transportation being paralyzed by heavy snowfall, which is a huge advantage. Delicious food is also a must. A warm motsunabe (offal hot pot), a Fukuoka specialty, or a rich tonkotsu ramen will warm you to the bone. As the sun sets, visiting the food stalls, 'yatai', that light up along the Naka River is another romance only possible in Kyushu. Sharing a warm oden broth and sake with locals, shoulder to shoulder, creates memories more profound than any luxury restaurant.
Practical Tips for Travelers
Hokkaido's snowy landscapes and Kyushu's hot springs – reading the previous chapters, your heart might have swayed like a scale. That's right, there's no single correct answer. But there is definitely 'a correct answer that suits you better'. To minimize regret and maximize satisfaction, no matter which choice you make, I've compiled a few realistic tips to review before you depart.
Reflect on Your Travel Style
Are you an 'adventurer' who is willing to endure the inconveniences of unpredictable nature for a once-in-a-lifetime spectacular view? Or are you a 'healing-seeker' who prefers to eat and rest comfortably in the stability of a well-planned trip? If the former, Hokkaido, where you can enjoy heavy snowfall and delays as part of the journey, will be more satisfying. If the latter, Kyushu will be much more enjoyable. Whether you enjoy spontaneous travel or need meticulous planning is also an important criterion.
Clothing: Survival Over Style
If you're going to Hokkaido, temporarily give up on style. A thick, waterproof and windproof outer layer, Heattech, fleece, earmuffs, and gloves are basic. Shoes, especially, cannot be overemphasized. Sapporo city sidewalks often turn into giant ice rinks overnight, so locals use anti-slip spikes (crampons) attached to their shoes or buy insulated boots altogether. You can easily find them at Don Quijote or shoe stores, so if you can't bring them from home, be sure to get them locally. In contrast, for Kyushu, a thick coat or lightweight down jacket with multiple layers is effective. Indoors, heating can be excessively warm, so several thin layers are much more comfortable than one thick knit sweater that's hard to take off.
Transportation: Prepare for the Worst
Booking Hokkaido winter peak season flights at least 3-4 months in advance is essential. Even more important is a 'Plan B'. It's not uncommon for New Chitose Airport to close or JR trains to be suspended due to heavy snowfall. To avoid missing your return flight, I strongly recommend having a 'buffer day' on your last day of travel, staying near the airport in Sapporo or Chitose. Kyushu is a paradise for rental car travel. The huge advantage is being able to rent a car at Fukuoka Airport and freely travel to Yufuin, Beppu, and Kurokawa without worrying about driving on snowy roads. Popular tourist trains like Yufuin no Mori can sell out as soon as bookings open a month in advance, so you need to act quickly.
Foods That Taste Even Better in Winter
In Hokkaido, crab dishes are a must. The sweet flesh of snow crab and hairy crab, plump in winter, is unforgettable. Starting your morning with a fresh kaisendon (seafood bowl) topped generously with uni (sea urchin) and ikura (salmon roe) at Sapporo Nijo Market or Otaru's Sankaku Market is also a special experience. In Kyushu, warm your body with steaming hot pot dishes like Fukuoka's specialty motsunabe (offal hot pot) or mizutaki (chicken hot pot). A night spent sitting at a yatai (food stall) along the Naka River, mingling with locals, and enjoying warm oden broth with a glass of sake – that's the romance of a Kyushu winter trip.
Ultimately, no matter where you choose, Japan in winter will not disappoint. Whether it's a special experience frolicking in white snowfields or a peaceful rest in a steaming open-air bath, romance awaits to fill your winter. Stop deliberating; it's time to open that flight search tab.