It was late one night in Tokyo, and I had just entered a small ramen shop alley with a 4.8-star rating on Google Maps. It was exactly the kind of place you'd see in a Japanese drama, where you buy meal tickets from a vending machine at the entrance. A hot bowl of ramen, extra chashu, and a refreshing draft beer – I thought it was the perfect end to the day. Patting my belly, I went to the counter, holding only my smartphone like someone just out for a neighborhood stroll, and very naturally handed over my card, asking, "Card... is it okay?"
The owner responded with an awkward smile and an 'X' sign made with both hands. Ah, my mind went blank for a moment. I opened my wallet and found I had almost spent all the cash I'd withdrawn that morning, with only a few thousand yen left. Sweat started to trickle down my back. Fortunately, I managed to pay for the ramen, but what if I had been with companions? I might have had to wander around a strange alley looking for an ATM. In Korea, it's common to pay with a card even for a stick of gum at a convenience store, so this experience in the heart of Tokyo was enough to make my face flush.
In fact, this ramen shop wasn't an exception. I had several similar experiences throughout my trip. In shops selling cute trinkets, local bakeries filled with the smell of freshly baked bread, and even at ticket booths for some tourist attractions, I frequently encountered 'CASH ONLY' signs. There were a few times I walked in assuming card payment would be available, only to awkwardly turn around and leave.
That's when I realized: there's a surprisingly large gap between the technologically advanced Japan we know and the daily lives of Japanese people. Why on earth does Japan, the world's third-largest economy, cling so tightly to cash? This simple question sparked my curiosity and ultimately led me to write this article.
Still a 'Cash Society'? The Real Story Behind Japan
To put it simply, yes, cash still holds immense power.
Of course, in department stores, hotels, and chain stores in major cities like Tokyo and Osaka, card usage is common. But venture into a small alley or a regional city, and the situation changes completely. Cash-only shops are plentiful. This isn't just about sticking to 'old ways'. There are quite complex reasons behind it.
First, Japan is known for its excellent public safety. People feel less worried about pickpocketing even when carrying a lot of cash, so there's less perceived need to use cards. Another factor is the high merchant fees for cards. For small business owners, a few percent in fees can be a burden. Furthermore, in an aging society, a generation not accustomed to digital payments still forms a significant part of the economy. According to data from Japan's Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry (METI), the cashless payment ratio in Japan was 36.0% in 2022, a significant difference from Korea's over 90%. (Source: KOTRA Overseas Market News) This means that 6-7 out of 10 transactions are still paid in cash.
Still, Winds of Change Are Blowing
Despite the strong 'love for cash' in Japan, which seemed so steadfast for the reasons mentioned above, significant cracks have begun to appear in recent years. When I first went to Japan, I was hesitant to use a credit card, but now the atmosphere has completely changed. The decisive factor was, of course, the COVID-19 pandemic. With an explosion in social demand for contactless and non-face-to-face payments, the Japanese government itself has set a goal of achieving a 40% cashless payment ratio by 2025 and is pouring out various support measures.
The most noticeable change is undoubtedly the widespread adoption of QR code payments. From convenience store counters to the doors of small neighborhood restaurants, you'll see colorful QR payment logos like 'PayPay', 'LINE Pay', and 'Rakuten Pay plastered everywhere, making you think, 'The competition here is really fierce.' Of course, most of these are domestic services that require Japanese phone number verification, making them difficult for Korean travelers to use directly. But the important thing is that this phenomenon has played a big role in changing shop owners' perceptions from 'cash only' to being more open. Once they installed QR payment terminals, it naturally led to many also supporting credit card payments.
Thanks to this, travelers have also found some relief. Now, in major cities like Tokyo, Osaka, and Fukuoka, you can freely use credit cards not only at convenience stores, drugstores, department stores, and chain restaurants, but also for purchasing most transportation passes and admission tickets. In particular, contactless (tap-to-pay) functions for Visa and Mastercard, the same way you 'tap' a transit card in Korea, are rapidly spreading. Payments that finish in 1 second with a 'beep' without needing to count change are truly pleasant. You can even find card terminals in individual shops or old restaurants, which was unimaginable before.
However, it's important to remember that not all these changes have been uniformly applied across Japan. You'll still likely encounter 'Cash Only' (現金のみ) signs if you venture slightly outside the city center, or visit long-established shops (老舗) run by generations, or small independent stores. It's literally a transitional period. Therefore, the correct payment strategy for traveling in Japan right now is neither 'a card is enough' nor 'cash only', but rather a 'hybrid' approach that flexibly uses both depending on the situation.
Conclusion: Acknowledging Differences and Preparing Accordingly
What I realized experiencing Japan's payment culture was that it wasn't about 'which is better' but 'it's just different'. For me, accustomed to Korea's system where one card solves everything, counting cash and handling coins was initially an inconvenience. But when I put a 1,000 yen bill into the ramen shop vending machine and received change in coins, or when I threw a 5 yen coin at a shrine and made a wish, that unfamiliarity had already become a scene from my trip. The weight of the jingling coin purse felt like vivid proof that I was truly 'traveling'.
Ultimately, isn't travel a process of encountering these small differences head-on and learning your own ways? If you've developed the habit of quickly scanning for Visa or Mastercard stickers at the entrance before opening a shop door, and if you've started to get a 'feeling' that 'this place probably only takes cash', then you're already an intermediate Japan traveler. The余裕 (yoyu, leeway/composure) of judging that 'given the atmosphere of this shop, it would be polite to prepare cash' instead of anxiously wondering if cards are accepted – isn't that what travel experience is all about?
So, a Japanese traveler's wallet naturally acquires two hearts. A 'main heart' for smooth card payments at department stores, hotels, and drugstores, and a 'secondary heart' of cash for small teahouses in alleys or snacks at local markets. Insisting on only one will inevitably lead to inconvenient moments. Flexibility in preparing both and using them appropriately is the smartest way to enjoy Japan's payment culture.
Japan's adherence to cash has its own social and historical context. As travelers, we simply need to respect that culture and prepare smartly. With a little preparation, the anxiety of 'what if payment doesn't work?' can turn into the small pleasure of 'how should I pay this time?'. Now, it's time to learn some specific practical tips to fill your 'hybrid wallet'.
Practical Tips for Travelers
Let's fill that 'hybrid wallet' I mentioned in the previous chapter. Here are some realistic guidelines based on my experience and the advice of seasoned travelers. First, aim for a minimum of 10,000 yen per person per dayfor cash. You might think, 'That's quite a lot, isn't it?' but this is the psychological safety net. 10,000 yen is enough for a bowl of ramen (approx. 1,000 yen), a cup of coffee (500 yen), 2-3 train rides (600 yen), with money left over for dinner or small souvenirs. Especially if you plan to visit cash-only local restaurants, pay admission fees for shrines or temples, buy omikuji (fortunes), or snack at traditional markets, it's better to prepare even more generously. For currency exchange, it's best to do it in advance through your primary bank's app in your home country. Exchange rates at Japanese airports or city exchange offices are often much higher.
Credit cards handle larger expenses. They are generally accepted at hotels, department stores, drugstores, large shopping malls, and most chain restaurants. Any internationally accepted card with a Visa or Mastercard logo will suffice. Sometimes, JCB cards offer discounts, but Visa/Mastercard have overwhelming versatility. Here's a pro tip: if the payment terminal asks, "Would you like to pay in JPY (Japanese Yen) or KRW (Korean Won)?", always choose JPY (local currency). Paying in KRW (your home currency) incurs double conversion fees, resulting in a loss. It's also a good idea to activate a 'DCC (Dynamic Currency Conversion) blocking service' through your card company's app in advance.
Two items significantly improve the 'quality of life' for Japan travel: a coin purseand a transportation card (IC card). In Japan, coins go up to 500 yen (about 4,500 won), so your pocket can quickly become heavy and jingling after just a few transactions. A small coin purse with separate compartments will free you from this stress. And for those moments when even taking out coins is too much hassle, there are IC cards like Suica and Pasmo.
- Purchase and Top-up: Due to semiconductor shortages, physical card issuance is currently suspended in many places. Instead, I highly recommend buying a short-term tourist card (like Welcome Suica) at the airport, or for iPhone users, issuing a mobile Suica directly from the Wallet app. Note that topping up is often only possible with cash at subway station machines.
- Where to Use: Trains and buses are standard, but you can also 'tap' to pay at convenience stores, vending machines, coin lockers, and even most chain restaurants and cafes. No need to count cash or worry about change; it's the best partner for moving quickly without interrupting your travel flow.
Ultimately, the answer is one: ample cash, an international payment card, and a topped-up IC card. If you have these three 'holy trinity' items and use them according to the situation, you'll rarely encounter any awkwardness or inconvenience due to money. Now, your wallet has become a master key that can flexibly handle any situation.