The first time I was walking through the alleys of Kyoto and suddenly saw a chimney rising high into the sky, I felt a strange, warm sensation in my heart. The fact that smoke was rising from up there meant that something warm was down below, right? Public Bathhouse (Sento)It was.
In the past, this chimney was the village's MilestoneThat’s what they say. It was the place where people on their way home from work would spot smoke rising from the chimneys in the distance and think, “The bathhouse is open again today,” before heading that way. But now, those chimneys are disappearing one by one. As technology changes, cities become more crowded, and regulations are introduced, The Brutal History of ChimneysIt is proceeding quietly.
Why did the chimney have to be so tall?
The reason the Sento chimney is so tall isn't just to make it stand out. There's a reason behind it: Stack EffectThere is a fundamental thermodynamic principle at work here. Back in the days when people burned wood or coal for fuel, chimneys had to be at least 20 meters tall to maximize combustion efficiency and direct the smoke upward into the sky without causing harm to nearby homes.
In Tokyo, in particular, to prepare for earthquakes, buildings are constructed using meticulously stacked layers instead of concrete Brick ChimneyThese formed the mainstay. Built by artisans one brick at a time, these chimneys feature a distinctive curve that is thick at the bottom and tapers toward the top, transcending their role as mere functional structures— Jo Hyung-mishowed off.
However, as fuel sources shifted from heavy oil to natural gas, the functional necessity of the massive smokestacks disappeared. Now, even a narrow metal pipe is sufficient for exhaust. Ultimately, the massive smokestacks—having lost their functionality—became mere “relics of the past” that only incurred maintenance costs, and were placed at the top of the demolition priority list.
I can't afford the demolition costs.
The immediate trigger for *The Cruel History of the Chimney* was Earthquake Response Regulations It was Ganghwa. Following the Great East Japan Earthquake, as the risk of aging chimneys collapsing onto nearby residential areas during an earthquake increased, the Japanese government began requiring strict seismic safety inspections.
Astronomical demolition and maintenance costs
It’s said that demolishing a single chimney can cost anywhere from several million to tens of millions of yen, depending on the surrounding environment. For private bathhouse operators struggling financially, this is a cost they simply cannot afford. Ultimately, they either choose to close their businesses or receive subsidies to have the chimneys removed. Half Chimney In many cases, the affected area retains an abnormal shape.
Urban Overcrowding and Regulations
The area around the public bathhouse, which used to be an open space, is now filled with high-rise apartment buildings. The new residents are concerned about the chimneys’ Jo Hyung-miInstead, they are filing complaints expressing concerns about air pollution caused by smoke and the risk of falling debris, further narrowing Sento’s room to maneuver.
What We Lose When Public Bathhouses Disappear
The disappearance of a chimney doesn't simply mean that a building is being torn down. It signifies the Social Safety Netwhich served as a forum for communication Local CommunityIt symbolizes the collapse of [...].
In Japan, Hadaka no Tsukiai (Naked Relationships)As the saying goes. It means that within the space of a public bathhouse, people shed their professions, social status, and economic disparities to encounter one another simply as “human beings.” As sentos—places where people used to check in on elderly residents living alone and watch neighborhood children grow up—disappear, the dark side of modern society, such as deaths from loneliness, is filling the void they’ve left behind.
"On the day the smoke stopped rising from the chimneys, the heartbeat of our village stopped as well. That’s because the sentō was not just a place to wash one’s body, but a gathering place where souls connected."
For First-Time Visitors to Sento
If you're looking for a sento with a chimney in Tokyo, try wandering through the back alleys around Sugamo, Koenji, and Arakawa. There are still a few places where smoke rises from the chimneys. Before entering and getting into the bath, Kakeyu (Body Wash)is a must. This is the basic rule of Japanese bathing etiquette.
As a matter of basic etiquette, towels should not be placed in the bath; while you may take photos of the exterior of the chimney, photography inside is strictly prohibited. Please check in advance, as some places may refuse entry to guests with tattoos. When you step out of a hot bath in the fall or winter, that refreshing feeling is truly something else. For me, that’s one of the most memorable moments from my trip to Japan.